Anti-aging creams may come and go, but one ingredient remains the gold standard: retinol. Derived from Vitamin A, retinols have been used safely since the 1970’s. But what exactly is it, how does it work, and should you incorporate a retinol cream into your beauty routine- even if you don’t have wrinkles?
What is Retinol?
Retinol is derived from vitamin A. The most famous retinol product is Retin-A, which was approved by the FDA in 1971 as a prescription treatment for acne. But while the user’s pimples were vanishing, they started seeing other benefits to their skin. Fine lines and sunspots were fading, and skin texture looked smoother. Even pores looked smaller. Skin just looked better, glowier and more vibrant. Sounds like a miracle product? While there’s no such thing as a miracle, retinols come close. Or put another way- retinols are the best anti-aging product money can buy that isn’t an injectable.
Since the debut of Retin-A, retinols have found their way over the counter, at drugstores and department makeup counters in products that contain high doses of retinols in safe but effective formulas. Think of retinols as multi-taskers and one of the hardest working products in your beauty arsenal.
What Does Retinol Do?
Retinols exfoliate the skin, purging it of old skin cells and creating new ones, which results in new, fresh skin with a smooth texture. They also help to shrink pores and increase cell turnover inside the pore, making it less likely to clog with dirt and oil. Retinols work by thinning the top layer of the skin, while thickening the smoother second layer (the epidermis) which makes skin look dewy and firm.
But perhaps retinol’s biggest claim to fame is that it helps boost collagen production. When it comes to tackling the signs of anti-ageing, collagen is key as it’s what gives skin elasticity and firmness. Think of it as a support structure for the skin, and keep in mind that collagen creation starts to diminish in the 30’s.
Are Retinol Creams Only For the Face?
Retinol laced products are available in face creams, eye creams, neck creams as well as body creams to tackle skin issues ranging from fine lines and dark spots to stretch marks and crepiness.
What is the Difference Between a Retinol and Retinoid?
Retinols and retinoids all come from vitamin A – or they are produced synthetically. They have the same function but their main difference is their concentration. Retinoic acid is the strongest version and is available by prescription. It is also known as tretinoin or Retin-A. “Retinoids” is an umbrella term that includes both over the counter and prescription versions of vitamin A, while “retinol” refers only to the over-the-counter version.
Some products contain pro-retinols which are listed as retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate and retinyl linoleate on the packaging. These are more gentle than retinol and can take longer to see results with them. However, one benefit of an over the counter retinol is that it may not cause as much irritation as a prescription strength version.
Who Should Use A Retinol Cream?
The quick answer is “everybody.” Just about all skin types can benefit from using a retinol spiked product but it’s best suited for anyone who has normal to oily skin that isn’t overly sensitive. Anyone with acne prone skin will also greatly benefit from using it. While retinol can cause irritation (more on that later), the key is finding the right percentage and frequency of use that is best suitable for your skin.
What Age Should I Start Using Retinol?
When it comes to anti-aging, prevention is half the battle- so don’t want until you start to see lines and dark spots to do something about it.The general rule of thumb is to start incorporating retinols into your routine around the mid to late 20s.
How Long Does it Take for Retinol to Work?
Everyone’s skin will react differently to retinol, but in general it takes about 12 weeks to six months to see results. Patience- and consistency of use- are key to seeing results.
What Strength of Retinol Do I Need?
Over the counter retinol products come in a variety of concentrations, ranging from 0.01% up to 1%. What exactly does this mean? It comes down to the strength of the product, which is important as retinol can be irritating to the skin.
If you’ve never used retinol before, start with a low concentration and see how the skin tolerates it before moving up to a moderate strength, which tends to be from 0.04% to 0.1%. The highest percentage is between 0.5% and 1% retinol.
But bigger isn’t always better when it comes to retinol concentration. The skin will still gain benefits from a lower strength product, as consistency of use is key. But if your skin has plenty of sun damage, deep wrinkles and sun spots, you will want to build up to a stronger concentration.
Does Retinol Have Any Side Effects?
Yes, side effects can occur when using a retinol cream. Retinol is powerful, especially in higher concentrations, and can cause irritation, peeling and redness. Anyone who has rosacea or particularly sensitive skin may be prone to irritation from using it. Usually side effects only last a few weeks until the skin gets used to the product. It is also important to wear a sunscreen with a broad spectrum SPF while using a retinol as skin may burn more easily.
Are Retinol Creams Safe?
Retinol is one of the most studied skincare ingredients and has been used since the 1970s. However, most physicians suggest that pregnant or breastfeeding women avoid using it. Always check with your doctor for any concerns.
How to Use Retinol
If you have never used a retinol product before, start slowly to prevent any redness, flaking or irritation. Apply a pea-sized amount of product once or twice a week and gradually build up to using it every night. And be patient. While some women see improvements in as little as two weeks, it can take up to six months to see a change. Make sure to incorporate a good moisturizer into your skincare regimen when using a retinol to offset any dryness. Take extra precaution when in the sun and be sure to apply a SPF daily — which everyone should do regardless of retinol use.
How to Pick A Retinol Cream
When it comes to choosing the right retinol product for your skin, packaging plays a part. Vitamin A is not stable- meaning it breaks down when exposed to sunlight and air. Try to choose products that come in a sealed tube or pump but if you do buy a product in a jar, try to select one in a dark container.
Further reading: What is retinol and what does retinol do
Here’s a look at some of the best retinol creams
The best retinol cream of 2021 is the Formulyst’s Anti-Aging Night Cream.
Here’s the entire list.
TDR Original review: Aug 04, 2020.
Best Retinol Serums
SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.3 Refining Night Treatment
A great option if you’re just easing yourself into using retinol, this gentle treatment will help fade away dark spots, soften wrinkles and prevent acne from forming. If you have sensitive skin, you can rest assured you won’t get any major side effects from this because the percentage of retinol is pretty low. But that doesn’t mean it’s not effective.
Medik8 Retinol 10TR Advanced Night Serum (1% Retinol)
This serum from Medik8 contains a higher percentage of retinol so if you’ve never tried the ingredient, you might want to prepare yourself for some irritation. If you’re not ready or simply don’t want to deal with any side effects, you can opt for this brand’s 0.3% or 0.6% versions. This is a great serum for fighting wrinkles and helping regenerate new skin cells.
Zelens Vitamin A Treatment Drop
Containing pure encapsulated retinol, this treatment from Zelens light and fast-absorbing face oil. It’s great for acne (don’t worry that it’s an oil) and features retinol inside tiny molecules that will help prevent irritation. Thus, you get a treatment that works without those pesky side effects.
The Ordinary Retinol 1% In Squalane
If you haven’t heard of The Ordinary yet, it’s a great affordable brand with products that really work. This retinol serum will help reduce acne and discoloration for a smoother skin appearance. You can even use it to help dislodge ingrown hairs. Thanks to squalane, it also hydrates.
Dr. Dennis Gross Ferulic Acid + Retinol Brightening Solution
Ferulic acid and retinol is a great combination. Ferulic acid is an antioxidant that helps protect against free radical damage that can accelerate aging, while retinol helps treat the damage that has already been done from sun exposure and pollution exposure. With this solution, you can expect overall brighter skin and be protected from negative environmental impact.
Renee Rouleau Advanced Resurfacing Serum
This serum contains 0.4% time-released retinol that works for up to eight hours while you’re sleeping. It also has a firming matrixyl peptide and glucosamine HCL to help retinol along and boost its brightening and smoothing effects. This is a gentle formula that also won’t irritate or leave you to deal with harsh side effects.
Peter Thomas Roth Professional 3% Retinoid Plus
This is one of the strongest retinol serums on this list, and it can be a little much for very sensitive skin types. However, this is supposed to be a gentle, lightweight formula that doesn’t irritate. Still, it would be best to exercise caution if you have reactive skin. If your skin is not easily irritated, you should give this strong retinoid a try to really help improve texture and tone.
First Aid Beauty FAB Skin Lab Retinol 0.25% Pure Concentrate
A serum specifically formulated for sensitive skin, First Aid Beauty’s retinol concentrate will help refine and resurface without causing irritation. Other ingredients in this formula include hyaluronic acid for hydration, vitamin C for brightening, vitamin E for antioxidant effects, colloidal oatmeal for soothing and calming and ceramides for skin softening. All in all, this is such a great serum for a variety of skin issues.
Verso Super Facial Oil with Retinol 8
You can use this oil on its own or mix it up with your moisturizer for hydration and a wrinkle fix. It is formulated with retinol 8, which the brand says is eight times more effective as regular retinol. Because it is an oil, it also helps provide moisture and a softening effect to keep skin supple.
Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair
An affordable drugstore option, Neutrogena’s Rapid Wrinkle Repair features accelerated retinol SA, which can combat wrinkles all over the face, diminish fine lines and visibly improve rough skin texture for a more refined appearance that includes smaller pores. It will also help brighten for more even tone throughout.
Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum
Murad’s retinol serum will target lax skin to improve firmness and elasticity. It actually features three types of retinol: a fast-acting retinol, a time-released retinol and a retinol booster. Together, they form a powerful team of wrinkle-fighting ingredients that will revive skin, making it appear years younger with regular use.
Sunday Riley Luna Retinol Sleeping Night Oil
Another oil that provides retinol action without irritation, Sunday Riley’s offering features a trans-retinol ester. This ingredient will still target fine lines, wrinkles and roughness without causing redness, flakiness or peeling. Other ingredients include chamomile to soothe redness and chia seed oil to help soften and hydrate.