Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5: What Can It Do for Your Skin? - The Dermatology Review

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5: What Can It Do for Your Skin?

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08.31.20 AD DISCLOSURE

What Are Palmitoyl Oligopeptides?

Many skincare blogs and reference websites provide confusing information about this group of skincare ingredients. Palmitoyl oligopeptides are the name of both the group of ingredients and the name of one specific ingredient. Palmitoyl oligopeptides are named after the first ingredient that was discovered. The subsequent ingredients with similar chemical structures were identified and given different names to characterize their structure and difference in function. However, the first discovered palmitoyl oligopeptide kept its name and became the name for this group of ingredients.  

Palmitoyl oligopeptides are peptide or small proteins, characterized by a generic structure of a string of amino acids. Generally, palmitoyl oligopeptides have similar uses in skincare, and cosmetic formulations are often used as an anti-aging ingredient. They are thought to be beneficial in anti-aging formulations due to their potential to help stimulate collagen production and promote healthy cell functioning. The three most commonly used palmitoyl oligopeptides in skincare formulations are palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and palmitoyl oligopeptide. They are all synthetically made. 

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

the good:May help to improve the appearance of the skin by supporting collagen production and improve general skin cell health. 

the not so good:It is a relatively new ingredient that has not been as well researched as other ingredients such as ascorbic acid or hyaluronic acid.

Who is it for?All skin types except those that have an identified allergy to it.  

Synergetic ingredients:Works well with most ingredients 

Keep an eye on:Keep an eye out for more research into this ingredient 

What Is Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and How Does It Work?

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is made up of chains of amino acids and can penetrate the epidermis and enter deep into the dermis, where may help to stimulate collagen production and healthy tissue growth. 

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 is one of many peptides that have recently been discovered that are used due to the positive effect on skin health. Peptides are chemicals that exist naturally, but many cosmetic companies are now creating them synthetically, in the lab, to achieve greater control over how they affect the skin.

Most peptides are made of chains of amino acids, which are directly involved in the creation of proteins in the body. Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 is a relatively new addition to the list of peptides that are used in skincare. Studies into its function suggest that the chains of amino acids communicate with the skin’s collagen production systems and boost its production, which is a significant factor in achieving smooth, wrinkle-free skin. 

One of the most effective ways to choose anti-aging products is to understand how the ingredients contained within them will affect your skin. This ingredient is a patented, human-made synthetic that is designed to communicate with healthy skin cells to keep them acting healthily. Cell communication is a relatively new concept when it comes to skincare and anti-aging. For centuries, skincare revolved around adding nourishing oils and ingredients to the skin. But recent studies have shown that ingredients like Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 may keep skin healthier and younger-looking longer by improving collagen production and firming the skin by supporting skin cell function.

It is also thought that palmitoyl tripeptide-5 may interact with hyaluronic acid and elastin production systems. The combined effect of these characteristics is increased water content, improved appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and a thickening of the skin. Additionally, studies have suggested that it helps support the healthy functioning of the cells, improving toxin removal. 

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5’s natural state is that of a clear liquid that has no odor and is water-soluble. This peptide can be found in a number of skincare products, but it is used most often in anti-aging creams and serums

Is Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 Safe?

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, a group that reviews the safety of skincare and cosmetic ingredients, has reviewed the available data on palmitoyl oligopeptides and has determined they are safe for use. There are no reported issues in terms of sensitivity, toxicity, or hormone disruption. However, palmitoyl tripeptide-5 is a relatively new ingredient. While there is a respectable amount of research on its effects, further information will be reviewed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. As they mentioned in their report, given the similarity in structure to other peptides in the body, they have the potential to interact with different pathways in the body.  

References:
El Hadmed, H & Castillo, R, 2016. ‘Cosmeceuticals: peptides, proteins, and growth factors’, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, vol. 15, is. 4, pp 514-519.
Schagen, S, 2017. ‘Topical Peptide Treatments with Effective Anti-Aging Results’, Cosmetics, vol. 4, is. 2.
Apone, F, Barbulova, A & Colucci, M, 2019. ‘Plant and Micoralgae Derived Peptides Are Advantageously Employed as Bioactive Compounds in Cosmetics’, Frontiers in Plant Science, vol. 10.
Johnson, w et al. 2018. ‘Safety Assessment of Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-12, Their Metal Salts and Fatty Acyl Derivatives, and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as Used in Cosmetics’, International Journal of Toxicology.
Trookman, N, Rizer, R, Ford, R, Ho, E & Gotz, V, 2009. ‘Immediate and Long-term Clinical Benefits of a Topical Treatment for Facial Lines and Wrinkles’, Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology’, vol. 2, is. 3, pp. 38-43.

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