What Is Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline?
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is a naturally derived ingredient often found in anti-aging skin and lip care products due to its potential protective effects on collagen and elastin.
Hydroxyproline is a major component of the protein, collagen and is thought to play a key role in collagen stability. It is produced by hydroxylation of the amino acid proline, a process that requires ascorbic acid or vitamin C. In humans, a deficiency in ascorbic acid leads to symptoms of scurvy due to the resulting defect in the hydroxylation of proline residues of collagen.
Collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body. It is the major component of connective tissues that make up several body parts, including tendons, ligaments, muscles, and skin. Collagen plays a role in strengthening skin, plus may benefit elasticity and hydration. The collagen protein is composed of a triple helix with three amino acids: hydroxyproline, proline, and glycine. While the benefits of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline on the skin have not been fully explored it is thought to help improve the appearance of aging skin.
the good:May help to improve the appearance of aging skin by supporting collagen production and stability.
the not so good:Research into this ingredient isn’t extensive, there is more to learn.
Who is it for?All skin types except those that have an identified allergy to it.
Synergetic ingredients:Works well with most ingredients
Keep an eye on:Keep an eye on further research into the benefits of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline.
How Does Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Benefit The Skin?
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is found in anti-aging skin and lip care products because it may reduce signs of aging.
One way that dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline may reduce signs of aging is by potentially stimulating the synthesis of collagen. This is important since the body produces less and less collagen with age. Moreover, environmental free radicals can degrade collagen proteins. The result is skin that becomes thinner and more fragile as collagen production is affected by either age or environmental factors.
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is absorbed through the skin where it is thought to play specific and essential roles in the synthesis of collagen sub-units and in the three-dimensional folding of collagen fibres. These collagen fibres help to maintain the structure of the skin and improve elasticity and firmness.
Another way that dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline may function to reduce signs of aging may be to preserve elastin fibres through anti-elastase activity. Elastin is a highly elastic protein found within the skin that allows the skin to resume its shape after stretching or contracting. While collagen makes skin look plump, elastin allows the skin to be elastic, pliable, and firm. As part of the natural functioning of the body enzymes, known as elastases, within the skin break down elastin, which has been linked to wrinkle formation. Therefore, through its anti-elastase activity, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline may have the potential to help reduce signs of aging and maintain skin elasticity.
Lastly, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline functions as an antioxidant, which means it is capable of protecting the skin from free radicals also known as reactive oxygen species. Environmental free radicals are generated from factors such as UV radiation, diet, smoking, and pollution. The harmful effects of free radicals occur as damage to cellular DNA, the cell membrane, and the cellular proteins, including collagen and elastin. Free radical damage has also been linked with the natural aging process. As mentioned above, damage to collagen and elastin has been linked in the research to the skin to losing strength and elasticity, resulting in lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin. Therefore, the ability of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline to protect the skin from free radical damage makes it an ideal ingredient to include in anti-aging skincare products.
Is Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Safe?
There is little data available on the safety of dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline as used in cosmetics and personal care products. According to EWG’s Skin Deep Cosmetic Database, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is rated as a 1 on a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being the lowest risk to health and 10 being the highest.
References:Trookman, N, Rizer, R, Ford, R, Ho, E, & Gotz, V, 2009. ‘Immediate and Long-term Clinical Benefits of a Topical Treatment for Facial Lines and Wrinkles’, The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2(3), 38–43.