Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer - The Dermatology Review

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

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04.24.20 AD DISCLOSURE

What Is Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp copolymer?

Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp copolymer is a synthetic polymer that is used in cosmetics and skincare products. It is used to help thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of formulations.  

Despite the intimidating name, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp copolymer is safe for its indicated uses in skincare and cosmetic formulations. It is non-irritating and doesn’t cause sensitization issues, great news for sensitive skin types. It is important to keep in mind that despite its low likelihood of irritation, like any ingredient, some people may be allergic to this ingredient. If you suspect that you might be allergic to ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp copolymer, speak with your dermatologist or doctor. 

Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp copolymer is a synthetic polymer. This means that it’s a large compound made up of repeated molecules. Polymers, both natural and synthetic, are widely used in skincare and cosmetic formulations. Synthetic ingredients have a bad reputation in the skincare industry, particularly in the natural or clean beauty world. This is due to the idea that natural is better. This idea is not necessarily true, many naturally derived ingredients are complex and impure, causing irritation and sensitization issues. Synthetic ingredients allow for the design of smooth feeling, stable formulations without a large price tag. 

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Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer

the good: Improves the formulation’s texture and sensory feel.

the not so good:

Who is it for?All skin types except those that have an identified allergy to it.

Synergetic ingredients: Works well with most ingredients

Keep an eye on: Just like any skincare or cosmetic ingredient keep an eye out for symptoms of irritation and allergy.

Why is Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer In My Skincare?

Texture 
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp copolymer helps to improve the texture of skincare and cosmetic formulations. In cosmetics and personal care products, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp copolymer functions as a film-forming agent, thickener, and texture enhancer. Due to the large molecule size and weight of this ingredient it is able to increase the viscosity of a product, making it thicker, think honey. Many water-based moisturizers and cleansers tend to be quite thin and runny, making them hard to apply. This watery consistency also makes the product feel less hydrating and has less sensory appeal. This is where ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp copolymer can be added to thicken the product. 

As a texture enhancer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp copolymer provides a fresh and light skin feel to the formulation without making the formula tacky or sticky. It is ideal for cream gels and aftershave products with melting sensory feel such as sunscreens and men’s skincare. After application, this ingredient produces a very smooth, velvety feel.

Moisturization 
Emulsifiers help to maintain a healthy skin barrier. The skin’s natural barrier helps to prevent the skin from losing moisture to the air and protect the skin from allergens and bacteria. Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp copolymer helps to protect the skin mantle barrier without disrupting the pH of the skin. This helps to seal in moisture and give your skin that smooth, plumped look. 

Stabilizer
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp copolymer also functions as an emulsion stabilizer. This means that it helps to keep the oil-based ingredients mixed with the water-based ingredients, preventing separation of the formulation.  When water and oil are mixed together and vigorously shaken, a dispersion of oil droplets in water – and vice versa – is formed. When shaking stops, however, the water and oil begin to separate again. Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp copolymer helps to stabilize the emulsion to prevent the two types of ingredients from separating. This improves the consistency of a product, ensuring you receive the benefits of your skincare evenly across the skin.

pH and concentration 
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp copolymer can be used across a wide range of pH levels, making it a versatile ingredient. It is generally used around neutral pH in skincare products. This means that it isn’t too acidic or too caustic for the skin. pH levels too far outside the skin’s natural pH of 4.7-5.75 can lead to irritation and sensitization. This is why many acid-based products such as glycolic acid or AHA products will cause irritation, particularly in sensitive skin types.  

Is It Safe?

The safety of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp copolymer, as well as 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers, has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, is a group dedicated to the safety assessment of skincare and cosmetic ingredients. Through their research they determined that ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp copolymer and the other polymers are safe for their indicated uses, do not cause dermal irritation or sensitization and are ethylene oxide free.  Ethylene oxide is sometimes found as a by-product of manufacturing some ingredients. Ethylene oxide is suspected to be linked with the formation of some cancers so it’s used is highly monitored. 

References:
Isaac, V, Cefali, L, Chiari, B, Almeida, M, Ribeiro, H & Corrêa, M, 2013. ‘Effect of Various Thickening Agents on the Rheological Properties of Oil-in-Water Emulsions Containing Nonionic Emulsifier’, Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, vol. 34,
Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 2016. ‘Safety Assessment of Acrylodimethyltayrate Polymers as Used in Cosmetics’, Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel.

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